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Installation

  • 1. Materials and tools
  • 2. Pre-installation preparation
  • 3. Suitable base floors and preparation
  • 4. Underlay placement
  • 5. Orientation of the installation
  • 6. Expansion joints
  • 7. Installation of the flooring
  • 8. Skirting boards and joints
  • 9. Maintenance and cleaning
  • 1. Materials and tools

     
    As glue is not needed to lay FINfloor laminate flooring, it makes the installation process a lot easier and quicker. 

    Tools required: saw, masking tape, pencil, spirit level, Stanley knife, and hammer (preferably rubber).
     
    Materials required: Flooring, FINfloor underlay, profiles and skirting, separating wedges, Teflon plug and lever ((these last three are included in our INSTALLATION KIT).
     
     
     
  • 2. Pre-installation preparation

     
    Finfloor is extremely versatile and can be installed in all areas of your home except those with high humidity in the environment, such as bathrooms, saunas, sinks, washing areas, etc. where its use is not recommended. Finfloor can be installed in the same room with other coverings (ceramics, tiles, etc.).
    When you install different products you must be careful with the differences in its thicknesses. We must stabilize the product 48 hours prior to use, the boxes unopened and stored horizontally. We then will place thermal, acoustic and moisture insulation. The room temperature should be around 18 ºC. A very important advantage of Finfloor is that once installed it can be uninstalled and reinstalled elsewhere in the house, thanks to its click system.
    IMPORTANT: Do not fit this product in areas of high humidity such as: bathrooms, saunas or near skins, etc. It is essential that the surface onto which you are going to lay the flooring is completely DRY, CLEAN and FLAT. Check that the surface conditions of the area where you are going to lay the flooring are ideal. Any uneven areas /greater than 3 mm/linear metre) should be levelled out with a paste or filler. Eliminate any irregularities which might cause a bad marriage between the board and the base-floor. Before use, leave the packs CLOSED for a period of at least 48 hours at the room temperature of the area where you plan to lay the flooring, in a horizontal position, well away from any walls. FINfloor can be fitted directly onto the majority of existing floor surfaces (e.g. wooden, PVC, concrete floors, etc). If the area where you are going to lay the flooring is carpetted, this must be taken up before installation, making sure that the surface underneath is level ( <3mm/linear metre of unevenness) and dry. It is imperative that the foundation floor is completely dry.
     
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  • 3. Suitable base floors and preparation

    FINfloor can be fitted directly onto the majority of existing floor surfaces (e.g. wooden, PVC, concrete floors, etc). [

     

    A. Cement Floors. ·The mortar should have a humidity level less than 2% MC, following the Magnesium method. When using artificial drying methods to dry the surface, this can cause the lower layers to retain moisture which will, in time, rise to the surface. You should allocate a sufficient period of time for drying out before undertaking any work. ·The drying time of the base floor will depend on the thickness and atmospheric conditions of the area. As a guide, you can estimate that in conditions of 20ºC and 50% humidity, drying time can be calculated using the following formula: t = 2s2 where “t” is time (in days) and “s” is the tickness of the base floor (in centimetres).

     

     

    B.··On base-floors where wooden flooring has already been fitted, we recommend that you remove some of the perimeter of the old flooring to allow proper ventillation.· The new flooring should be laid at right angles with the old flooring, and never in the same direction.

     

    C·Whenever you are planning to lay laminate flooring over wooden floor boards, you must leave enough space between the boards and the wall to allow for expasion (following the manufacturer’s recommendations). The laminate flooring must be laid so that the joints between boards are not in the same place as the gaps between the floor boards.

     

    D. ·Plaster based floors should have a maximum of 0,5% MC (Magnesium Content).

     


    E.·Our laminate flooring can be laid directly on top of completely watertight surfaces (tiles, wood, cement, etc.), you must take up these surfaces and their old adhesives before laying the laminate flooring, as they can be susceptible to holding moisture, leading to rotting or an uneven surface.

     


    F. Installation instruccions for laying laminate flooring over under-floor heating. The under-floor heating system is installed under the base-floor

     

    G. ·If the foundation floor is directly over the subsoil and in a glazed area, exposed to sunshine, we recommend that you fit sheets of 10 mm expanded polythene with a density of at least 35 kg/m3 in order to protect the product from sudden and successive temperature changes, due to the cooling caused by the humidity of the base-floor and the heat from the sun.
     
  • 4. Underlay placement



     

    DUE TO ISOLATION, ACOUSTIC AND ANTI MOISTURE. ALWAYS PLACE THE UNDERLAY .

    All types of concrete, light concrete or ceramic tiles need an anti-humidity layer. Use plastic sheeting at least 0.2mm thick Consult the technical sheets of these products to see which one best meets your requirements; other underlays available in the market may not protect against moisture, something which is very important to bear in mind as claims cannot be upheld wherever the recommended underlays have not been used, and installation guidelines strictly followed.

     

    .Finsa offers many different types of underlay in its accessory range which fulfill these levelling-out and insulation functions.

     

    - Place the underlay in strips as required. If you were to install the underlay as one big sheet, it might get damaged or torn by the movement of the laminate flooring and therefore lose its insulating qualities. Remember to lay the underlay with an excess so it rides up the walls by 5 cm.

     

    The sheets should be fitted, overlapping eachother by at least 20 cm, or alternatively by at least 10 cm when securing the plastic sheets together with 50 mm thick adhesive tape; it should be laid so that it rides up the walls by 5-6cm- this will be cut when fitting the skirting board.
     
  • 5. Orientation of the installation

    -ORIENTATION OF THE PIECES:

     

    We recommend that you lay the flooring in the same direction as the main source of light

     

    In corridors areas shall be installed longitudinally, never sideways.

     

    You should measure the room widthways, across the area where you are intending to fit the flooring, subtracting 2 cm for the lateral expansion gaps ( 10 mm each side). You then divide this figure by the width of a board (0.189 m) in order to know how many rows of flooring you are going to need. If the number you get is not a whole number, you multiply the numbers after the decimal point by the width of a board (0.189m) in order to get the width of the final board. If this figure is less than 5 cm, you would have to cut back the first row of boards by approximately 10 cm to have enough width for the final row
     
  • 6. Expansion joints

     

    Use separating wedges to make sure that a 10 mm gap is left between the walls and entire perimeter of the flooring. This gap will be hidden once the skirting board and profiles have been fitted, and will give the product the space necessary for expansion and contraction..

    - HOLES FOR PIPES: measure the diameter of the pipe and make a hole 20 mm bigger in diameter. Cut a section with a saw, as shown in the image below, and put the board in place on the floor. Then, lay the cut section in place so it matches up to the other piece like a jigsaw puzzle.

     

    In doorways, a 30mm gap should be left (10 mm for the width of the product and 10 mm for each length) where the expansion profiles will be placed to separate the different rooms..

     

    Likewise, when laying the flooring over a large surface area, you should also leave a 30 mm expansion gap (10 mm for the width and 10 mm for each length) every 8 metres lengthways and 5 metres widthways. .

     

    In T, L or U shaped rooms, you should also leave expansion gaps in order facilite the free movement of the product. These spaces will be later covered with expansion profiles (also available in our accesories range) .

     

    In doorways, a 30mm gap should be left (10 mm for the width of the product and 10 mm for each length) where the expansion profiles will be placed to separate the different rooms

     

    Door frames require special care as 10mm also needs to be removed from the bottom of the frames to allow for expansion.

     

    Certain pieces of heavy furniture (bookcases, wardrobes, aquariums...) can hinder expansion, either laterally or lengthways. In case of any doubt, we recommend that you leave bigger expansion gaps, to be later covered with a thicker skirting board.
     
     
     
     
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  • 7. Installation of the flooring


     

    -FIRST PIECES OF THE FIRST ROW: Start laying the flooring from left to right with the “tongue” facing the wall. Make sure you place the boards 10mm away from both walls. This is easier to do if you lay three rows of boards first, then, after cutting them to the shape of the wall, push them nearer to the wall, maintaining a gap of 10mm between all parts of the wall and the flooring.

     

    -LOCK IN THE SHORT END OF THE SECOND BOARD: Place the short ends of the two boards together (trying to leave them lined up straight), lift the board at an angle of 15-20º, pushing lightly forwards and then downwards so that the board automatically hooks into the adjoining board. Continue this process until the first row is complete.

     

    Coloque la última lama, girándola 180º y enfrentando así en los lados cortos hembra con hembra. Coloque la cuña separadora (10mm.) entre la pared y la pieza y proceda a marcar la zona donde se cruza con la anterior para poder así cortarla. Si esto le resulta difícil tome la distancia con un metro y no se olvide de restar los 10 mm. de junta de dilatación.

     

    -CUTTING THE BOARDS: Place the boards decor side down and cut with a jigsaw. If you are using a manual saw, use one with small teeth and cut the boards with the decor side facing up.

     

     

    -FIRST BOARD OF THE SECOND ROW: Use a section of the board you have just cut for the final board of the last row to start the next row. This board must be at least 30cm long. If it is too short, start the row with a new board, cut to 1/3 its usual length. Always make sure that the joints of the first and last boards are staggered by at least 30 cm.

     

    -CONTINUE LAYING THE FLOORING: 1) Place the next board flat, parallel to the board of the adjoining row, raise the panel at an angle of approximately 15º, push forwards and downwards lightly and the boards should automatically interlock.

     

    2) Place the short end of the next board opposite the board just installed, push forwards and downwards lightly. Make sure that it is close to the adjoining board, and proceed to lock it together with the previous piece.

     

    3) Lift the board, creating an angle of approximately 15º (along with the previous board of the same row), push lightly forwards and downwards so that the boards lock into the length sides of the previous row.

     


     

     

    - TO LAY THE FINAL ROW: measure and cut the board. Leave a 10mm gap with the wall for expansion.

     

    ATTENTION: In some circumstances, it is not possible to lift the boards at an angle so they lock together (for example, underneath door frames or radiators, etc). In such cases, you can fit the pieces together with the boards flat, bearing in mind that you should not directly strike the boards, and making sure that you use the Installation Kit. You shoul give short, sharp strikes against the installation kit hitting block is in perfect contact with the edge of the laminate flooring. The same should be done on the length side, albeit progressively, starting at one end and working your way along the board.
     
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  • 8. Skirting boards and joints

    In doorways, a 30mm gap should be left (10 mm for the width of the product and 10 mm for each length) where the expansion profiles will be placed to separate the different rooms. Door frames require special care as 10mm also needs to be removed from the bottom of the frames to allow for expansion. The plastic beading must be screwed to the ground and the expansion profile or transition fits with pressure. Never glued to the ground profile.

     


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    The baseboard can be installed to the wall with tips without head or using plastic profiles available in Finfloor, that fit with pressure. The baseboard must not join with glue to the wall or the floor.
     

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  • 9. Maintenance and cleaning

    Finfloor surface is protected to give a long life and high wear resistance. It's a finished product, however, we must take into account a number of recommendations and instructions for maintenance and cleaning.


    -The ideal conditions for avoiding changes in the board’s dimensions are 50-70% relative humidity and approximately 20ºC. If neccessary, use a dehumidifier.

    DO NOT varnish, sand, polish, etc... the laminate flooring. Products containing wax, soap or polish may leave behind residues. The surface is treated in order to avoid deterioration.

    -Never fix the laminate to the base floor (with glue, nails, screws, fixed door stops, etc).

    -Fit felt or plastic pads to the feet of all furniture and chairs and regularly check its condition.


    -Use chairs with soft wheels that won’t damage the flooring (Type W, in accordance with regulation DIN 68131), or failing that, use a polycarbonate mat to avoid direct contact with the floor (the wheels should be kept clean)


    -The use of doormats at exterior door entrances is recommended in order to prevent dirt, dust, gravel, etc... coming in from the street.



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    -The ideal conditions for avoiding changes in the board’s dimensions are 50-70% relative humidity and approximately 20ºC. If neccessary, use a dehumidifier.


    -Use a broom, vacuum cleaner or completely wrung out mop. Never use abrasive cleaning aids (wire wool, scouring pads, etc..) to clean the laminate flooring.


    -WARNING!!! Use non-abrasive, Ph neutral detergents. Only use products reccommended and approved by the manufacturers that can be seen on the web site. Waxes and other cleaning products and polishes for wooden floors or furniture are not fit for use on laminate flooring.


    -To clean grooved products, DO NOT use sharp or pointed instruments. Use only a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. If this is not sufficient use a slightly dampened cloth.


    -To eliminate stubborn stains, use slightly dilluted acetone or alcohol for domestic use. Afterwards, clean with water.


    -Special care should be taken in areas of domestic animals. (Urine can damage the laminate flooring).


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